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Jarbidge Lake
Jarbidge Lake is a very interesting high mountain lake. It is in the middle of a grassy meadow. The lake has very defined banks but doesn't change size. The water level can rise and fall but it is always within the same bank. The water is 30 ft. in diameter. The bank is 3-5 feet deep on the edges, and 8-12 feet deep in the middle. There is no water coming in but a constant little stream coming out. And, there are no fish. It is a different lake/ pond environment at 9400 ft.Snow pack will stay in the basin until at least late july.
There are a few good places to pitch a tent. On the west side you come in on, follow the river back down a bit to see the camp sites. The other is on the east side of the lake just below the trail.
Watch for the family of Clark’s Nutcrackers that frequent there. They are high altitude, medium-sized, grey-bodied birds with black wings and a black tail, featuring white patches on the wings and outer tail feathers that are most visible during flight. They are related to the crow and blue jay and are highly intelligent. In fact, they are easier to identify by their call. The sound they make may lead you to think a crow has followed you up the mountain.
Emerald Lake
You can't go to Emerald lake without passing Jarbidge Lake from this side. Continuing past Jarbidge lake takes you steeply up to the summit. Then swiftly declines into steep switchbacks toward the bottom. Now you're on the Emerald Basin Trail. Follow this for less than a mile and keep to the left trail.
When you get there, Emerald Lake is truly named for its color. Even though the lake is 128 ft in elevation higher, it does not feel as much like a high altitude lake.
It is larger and much deeper and has banks that change when the water gets higher and lower.
Emerald has catchable fish. They seem smart and skittish. When you throw your bait in, they all come swimming from all directions. Thats about all you get, you either catch one or they all just look at it. They don't seem very interested after that. Until you walk 10 feet around the river and throw in. All the fish come swimming in again. You can go on like this over and over. You will get tired before the fish do.
Take a swim. The cool water there is refreshing. There is a large rock that lookws like it was places intentionally as a platform to jump off from.
For you, Emerald Lake can be an escape from the busy world. It may be something like that for animals too.
I have done this hike several times and usually stayed overnight. This time, my two oldest boys ,who were in their twenties, had taken a break from school to come visit. We all agreed this hike would be the best way to spend our short time together. So, we got up early and hit the trailhead.
Our plan was to make it to Emerald Lake by dark. We were planning to stay the night there and hike back the next day. What may have been a small challenge for me in my 20’s. Now, looking back, was just a bad idea. But we were off.
We arrived at the lakes edge still in sunlight. They wasted no time, both boys dropped their packs on the edge of the water and dove in. Just what was needed after a hot August hike. I sat on a flat rock under a small tree and watched… and rested, hoping they didn't notice how tired I was.
They waded out of the lake as the sun was going behind the ridge with darkness settling in. The two boys looked refreshed. They were searching around for a flat spot to set up their ten in the last light. “Dad, where's your tent? Aren't you going to set it up?” they asked.
“No, it’s going to be a beautiful night, I think I’ll sleep under the stars.” I replied knowing my legs might lock up if i tried to. I was not sure I could if I wanted to… and I didnt. I needed rest to make it off the mountain the next morning.
I pulled my sleeping bag from my pack and laid it out across the dirt. This is my preferred way to sleep if the weathers right. It was dark now and I could hear my boys softly talking and then their light turned off and I fell fast asleep.
I was expecting some leg pain and restlessness that night, but I was not expecting nature’s surprise.
I must have been dreaming about trains, or busy streets when I opened my eyes to the stomping of a large buck deer just feet from me. Again he stomps a little closer. I looked around with sleepy eyes and there were other bucks near him, intermingled with several doe deer.
I couldn't wait this one out and started to devise a plan. I must have still been half asleep but it dawned on me that they were just deer. Animals that are more afraid of humans than we should be of them.
I sat up from my sleeping bag to assess the situation. The lead buck noticed and stomped again. I quickly dug my flashlight out and flipped it on. Looking back toward the boys tent and the lake were glowing eyes. Eyes everywhere. As I focused in, there were big eyes, small eyes and the reflection of eyes on the water. I remember thinking one set of eyes I was seeing could not be a deer and must belong to a rabbit or fox.
I reeled back fast when he stomped again, this time the deers hoofs landed just inches away. I could see dust in the light and snot on his nose as he put his head down and snorted.
The adrenaline rushed through me and my survival instinct kicked in. I jumped to my feet with wobbly legs and began screaming and waving my arms. The deer did not run away like i had envisioned. They all looked at me and took just three steps back, unafraid. I stepped it up getting louder and more animated. They retreated. I stood there alone in the moonlight, breathing heavily, calculating my next move.
The big bodies had retreated back into the nearby trees when I sat back down, exhausted. A little panic flashed inside me again when I shined my light toward the boys tent. Nothing was wrong, nothing moved. And there was no sound. I wondered if it was all a dream. I turned my light back to the trees. Sure enough, there were reflecting eyes watching. I laid down and pulled my sleeping bag up over my head. What had just happened, all started to sink in . A felt a little lucky and drifted back to sleep.
This is the hardest part of the experience. The morning came and the two boys emerged from their tent bright eyed. I got up extra early that morning and made coffee. They grabbed their cups and met me by the fire. Eger to find out what they heard I threw out a baited hook to them, “Did you get any sleep after?”
“After what?”
Take Jarbidge Road out of Jarbidge over three bridges. Stay left and don't go up the Elko grade. Follow the road to the last campground. From Pine Creek Campground, keep driving on the 4x4 road. Follow the road through both river crossings until you come to a bridge. Go over and keep following until you get to the sign blocking the road. This is the Jarbidge River Trailhead. From there you hike 6 ½ miles to Jarbidge Lake and 8 ½ miles to Emerald Lake.
Lost Paradise Cabin
Lost Paridise Cabin is a hidden treasure. Not because its hard to find, but because its so hard to get to. When you get there and walk through the door youll see why. This cabin must have been built by the old blacksmith. The forge stove. The tools on the table. All in relatively good shape still. Its impressive these old hand built cabins. Take the shingles for instance. Each is part of a split log. All the same shape and size, nearly identical. And they were found here, not brought up like a load of tin.
If you backtrack, there is a little clearing with a spring. I always carry an aluminum straw in my pack just for this kind of spring. In fact, there are very few springs that it is easy to get the safest water from. Dont get me wrong, the water is probably very safe at the opening where the water comes out. I have held this type of collection up in the sun and had “swimmers” floating around.
The best way to get around this is with the straw. Stick it as far back in the water flow as you can. Prop the other end up with a rock. And your filling your canteen with water straight from where nothing else can get to. Hold that nalgene bottle up to the sun and be proud of the freshness.
Follow the trail past Emerald Lake to the end of the flat. Start up the switchbacks to the summit just below Cougar Peak. Through a couple valleys and down the other side. The cabin is in a clearing on the left. You cant miss it. Now your on Cougar Peak Trail. Total 1 ½ miles.
